Slow Food at the Tower Club

Shellfish mélange, olive oil ‘cigar’ wasabi nitro

“Ivan, today I promise you real food,” said Chef Edward Voon as I walked in from the lobby.

Remarks ranging from “full of air” to “highly pretentious” have been thrown around the ether. A lot of people, including the perpendicular pronoun, have not been kind to Chef Edward’s food since the days of Dolce Vita and Aurum. So it was with some hesitation that people signed up for this event.

Of course, this was not helped by the rather vague if not cryptic menu. However, as this blog tends towards a sunny disposition when faced with lunch, coupled with a promise of good food, I went forth with an open mind, open heart and an open mouth and was pleasantly surprised.

If there was one word to sum up the entire lunch, it would be “Flavor”. Take for instance, the Shellfish mélange with olive oil rolled in a cigar and served with Wasabi Nitro.

Wasabi Nitro

Served with a deliciously thick Tapanade, the component of the ensemble harmonized into one mighty flavorful crunch that left the taste buds severely wanting more. Served with a chilled Rose from the Bandol region in Provence, France, it was a resounding start to the meal.

Personally, the most memorable course was the Poultry Broth. I love soups but it is rare for me to taste something that Escoffier is most emphatic about and what Micheal Ruhlman raves about.

Poultry Broth, Sauté foie-gras, champignon, Madeira wine

A spoonful of the Poultry Broth with Sauté foie-gras, champignon and flavored with Madeira wine is one of those glorious moments where you are transported into a surfeited world layered with warm comfort as you are filled with burst upon burst of flavor. Unsurprisingly, my table was silent in contemplation throughout this course.

To fulfill the promise of feeding everyone, we were taken on a tour de force of traditional French cooking like the Ballotine of farm chicken, the slow-cooked beef cheeks, a surprisingly tart but effective Hokkaido scallops in an Asian dressing and a special off-menu gift of a delicately pan-fried Cod with braised lentils.

Ballotine of farm chicken ‘duxelle’, Truffle risotto, fine vegetables, sauce supreme

The other memorable course (actually, they were all good but still…), according to guests, was the dessert of Warm white chocolate, coconut sorbet, cacao soil. Someone remarked that there was no theme to this dessert as everything was haphazardly positioned. It’s hard to argue against that, so I didn’t; instead, I enjoyed dessert.

Chocolate .2009 - Warm white chocolate, coconut sorbet, cacao soil

Lunch at the Tower Club’s The Atlantic Dining Room was exceptional. It’s been more than 2 months and people are still raving about it. Edward Voon who postponed his Spanish vacation just for this lunch came away vindicated as he showed off his traditional French cooking chops with a light touch of molecular gastronomy. Which is just about all most people can put up with.

Smoking Spoon

Posted on 15th Oct 2009 in Modern European, Slow Food Singapore


There Are 4 Comments


K commented on November 29, 2009 at 11:08 am

Is the Slow Food Society is running? The website seem to be non functioning – forms/contacts not working? Would be very keen to join in one of the lunches. K


ivan commented on December 7, 2009 at 10:13 am

@K: Hi! Yes, we’re still around but we’ve stopped activities (this is a tradition) because of the holidays where everyone is on vacation.


K commented on December 14, 2009 at 12:20 am

Thanks Ivan, is it open to new members for next year perhaps? (re: Slow Food Society) .. how to har?


[…] L’Entrepot Bistrot to see what the fuss is all about, had a meeting of Hainanese minds and had a magnificent lunch at the Tower Club. Speaking of fuss, a Singaporean pastry shop threatened legal action on a blogger who didn’t […]

Post A Comment

The comments are closed.


Recent Comments ?hhis is vital a? you would certainl? nnot want a pet dog entrance do?r to open...

Rexic: Would have agreed with you but then I saw Pontian wanton mee with nacho cheese...

ivan: Thanks! I just think it’s a tired argument that doesn’t make sense.

Bugger: Btw, kacang puul looks amazing!

Bugger: Hear! Hear! So called “authenticity” is a great hurdle to emergence of new...

MervC: I like they way they bring out the massive chunk of tuna, and the great knife skills,...

ivan: Yes you are. 🙂

MervC: Look like Hashida Sushi. Am i right?




Cha Xiu Bao

Chubby Hubby

Makansutra Forum

My Inner Fatty

Nibble & Scribble

NYT Diner’s Journal

Only Slightly Pretentious Food

Serious Eats

Tamarind and Thyme

The Girl Who Ate Everything

The Wong List


View Stats