Hubert de Bouard de Laforest at Seven on Club


Truth be told, I’ve no idea what to expect from Seven on Club since it has gone through so many iterations from Mediterranean to Modern European. I ended up chilling on the veranda, sipping Champagne with Peter, reminiscing on the whiskey dinners he used to have in his World Gourmet Summit line-up.

We also touched upon how the Michelin Guide has finished its recruitment of inspectors and how they are making the rounds now. Truth be told, how many restaurants in Singapore do you think really qualify for a 2-star rating (much less a 3-star)?

More importantly, how many restaurants can sustain 3-star levels of quality and service? Is the pursuit worth it, especially with such a small market? How many restaurants will, like the Ouroboros, end up eating itself in the never-ending pursuit?

Anyway, M. Hubert was in town and the Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Bailliage de Singapour was tasting wines from his portfolio and Ted had the brilliant idea of pairing the red wines with red meat.

That is the tale, the rest is detail.


Carpaccio of Veal

Happily, I was seated in the bright and cheery private dining room with Ted, Chris, KK, Jeff, Hwee Ling, Tai Thong and Henry. It was a great start since it’s been a while since I caught up with them. Henry recently tuned his car engine and was aggressively firing off witticisms on all four cylinders. It was a wonderful start to a perfect evening of friends, food and French wine.

Dinner started off with a beautiful venison carpaccio made wondrous with a warm mix of oil, herb and spices. It was so good that while I was inhaling the aromas everyone else demolished theirs and looked enviously at my plate.


Foie Gras perfumed consommé of oxtail

I’ve always thought that Michael Ruhlman was a little obsessive about good stocks but when I was served the Consommé of oxtail, I said a Mea Culpa as the heady vapors filled my head and rang a clear bright bell in the dark depths of my soul.

I asked and was rewarded with a second helping. It was as stupendous second time round. Chopped Parsley never tasted so clear and bright.

Unfortunately, the high was downed with the appearance of the roasted rack of lamb. I was a little turned off by the plasticky sheen of the unrendered fat and pink flesh. A sure sign of sou vide cooking. And like all sou-vide-cooked meats, it was tenderly soft to the point of being flaccid. There wasn’t much taste to speak of; an altogether unpleasant experience and a waste of a good rack of lamb.


Roast rack of Lamb?

Fortunately, the beef ribs on a confit of leeks lifted our moods dramatically. It was good to taste real flavors of meat properly roasted.

And with the beef ribs, the parade of Brazillian Rodízio of Picania (beef topside) and Beef hump served with rounds of mashed sweet potatoes and roasted onions.


Beef Rib with leek confit

After an all-too-small parcel of excellent baked cheese, the dessert of Sago Gula Melaka had all of us applauding. This was old-school dessert that brought back a lot of memories for all of us.

It was done very well. The chocolate leaf with custard topping was a marriage made in heaven. So good that most of us had 3 servings. Definitely one of the best caps to any dinner I’ve had this year.


Seven on Club has had many changes but Chef Jason Lee delivers the goods in a non-flashy but exceptional way. The wines were, as always, very good; after all M. Hubert’s efforts have pushed Ch. Angelus to the forefront so much so that even James Bond drinks it.

Now, I must remember to remind Peter about the whiskey dinner…

Seven On Club is at No. 7 Club Street, Singapore 069403, Tel: 6327 9663, Open: 11.30am to 2.30pm (Mondays to Fridays), 6.30 to 10.30pm (Mondays to Saturdays). Closed on Sundays and public holidays.




Baked cheese parcel with fruit and nuts


Roast rack of Lamb


2001 La Fleur Saint Georges Le Plus de la Fleur de Bouard – Robert Parker 91 Drink: 2006 – 2014 $75-$139 (65) The super, limited production, stunningly proportioned 2001 Le Plus de la Fleur de Bouard boasts a saturated purple color in addition to phenomenal concentration. This massively endowed offering is about as powerful and concentrated as a wine from Bordeaux can be. How this wine will age remains to be seen, but this is amazing stuff made from small yields of 20 hectoliters per hectare. It should drink well for at least 12-15 years.


2008 La Fleur de Bouard – Robert Parker (90-93) Drink: N/A $23-$32 The 2008 La Fleur de Bouard was cropped at 25 hectoliters per hectare, and the final blend is 80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine came in at 13% natural alcohol. Its dense purple color is accompanied by a big, sweet nose of white chocolate, creme de cassis, licorice, tar, and toast. A lively, crisp acid profile is due to the lack of serious heat in 2008. Textured and long, it is capable of lasting a decade or more. This is a sleeper of the vintage.


2008 Chateau Angelus Saint Emilion – Robert Parker (92-94) Drink: 2009 – 2039 $100-$168 Made from yields of 30 hectoliters per hectare, this blend of 58% Merlot and 42% Cabernet Franc exhibits an inky/blue/purple color as well as a sweet bouquet of blueberries, blackberries, camphor, forest floor, and a hint of spring flowers. Although backward, it reveals great intensity, sweet tannin, a nuanced, lively personality, full body, and a promising style. Like a lot of these wines, the score for this wine is probably low given the late malolactic fermentation as well as a later than usual blending. There have been so many great wines from Angelus since 1989 that it is hard to put the 2008 in the context of some of the other remarkable vintages. My guess is that there are five vintages that will ultimately eclipse it – 1989, 1990, 1998, 2000, and 2005, but not by much. However, the 2008 is not far off the mark of any of those legends. It should drink well for 25-30 years.


1998 Chateau Angelus Saint Emilion – Deep ruby-red. Very complex aromas of plum, redcurrant, iron, mocha, cedar, milk chocolate and woodsmoke. Silky-sweet and voluptuous; very suave texture given shape by harmonious, ripe acids. Flavors are deep and complex. The thoroughly ripe tannins hit the palate quite late, allowing the strong fruit, mineral, chocolate and spice flavors to build. Today this shows more obvious balance and finesse than the massive young 2000. 92 points


2001 Chateau Angelus Saint Emilion- Robert Parker 93 Drink: 2007 – 2017 $182-$246 (95) A brilliant performance by Hubert de Bouard, the 2001 Angelus (6,250 cases) is a more restrained and delineated version of the 2000. It has shed much of its tannin, and seems far more evolved and open-knit than I thought prior to bottling. Its deep purple color is followed by a rich nose of creosote, charcoal, blackberries, plums, cassis, and espresso roast. Elegant, medium-bodied, and rich, with a measured ripeness and moderate structure in the pure, nicely proportioned finish, it is less massive than either the 2000 or 2003, yet is also beautifully put together. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2017.




Posted on 8th Oct 2010 in Brazillian, Chaine de Rotisseurs, Meat, Modern European, Wine Tasting Notes


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